Good / Better / Best
The structure that makes menu selling work. Three tiers, each one a complete answer to "what should I do today?" — each one honest, each one a fair choice for the customer.
Master the Good / Better / Best logic — what goes in each tier, what doesn't, and how to make sure no tier feels like a rip-off or a trick.
The Core Principle
If you'd be uncomfortable selling someone "Good" because it leaves something dangerous undone, you've built the menu wrong. If "Best" includes stuff that's nice-to-have rather than need-to-have, you've built it wrong. Every tier should be something you'd recommend if your dad walked in with the same car.
The Three Tiers — Detail
GOOD — "The minimum to be safe"
Contains only the items that are non-negotiable for safety or basic function. If the customer can only do one thing today, this is what it should be.
| Goes in GOOD | Does NOT go in GOOD |
|---|---|
| Brake pads at red threshold (2mm or below) | Brake pads at yellow (3–4mm) — they're not failing yet |
| Active fluid leaks (engine, transmission, brakes) | Minor seepage / dry surface stains |
| Battery that's actually failing | Battery that's aging but still passing |
| Tire with bald spots / cord visible | Tire at 4/32 still well above legal minimum |
| Anything affecting safe drivability | Anything categorized "yellow / watch" |
BETTER — "Good plus what's wearing now"
Contains everything in Good, plus the yellow items that are showing wear. These aren't emergencies but they're trending. Doing them now is cheaper than doing them later, and saves a return visit.
| Goes in BETTER | Why it's in this tier |
|---|---|
| Brake fluid flush if dark | Affects the brake system's longevity, not safety today |
| Cabin air filter (visibly dirty) | Quality-of-life item, easy upgrade |
| Engine air filter | Affects fuel economy and engine breathing |
| Rear brake pads at 3-4mm | Not failing yet, but won't last to next visit |
| Wiper blades streaking | Safety + visibility, low cost |
BEST — "Better plus full preventive"
Contains everything in Better, plus the preventive maintenance items that extend the vehicle's life and prevent future surprises. This is for the customer who wants to be ahead of every issue, not behind.
| Goes in BEST | Why it's in this tier |
|---|---|
| Rotor resurfacing with brake job | Extends rotor life, prevents return for warped rotors |
| Coolant flush at mileage interval | Cooling system longevity |
| Transmission service at mileage interval | Major preventive — saves a $3,000+ rebuild later |
| Spark plugs at interval | Fuel economy + smooth running |
| Battery replacement (aging but passing) | Preventive — replace before stranding |
The "If This Were My Dad's Car" Test
Apply this to EVERY menu you build:
- If my dad picked "Good" — would he be safe driving home? (Must be yes.)
- If my dad picked "Better" — would I feel like he made a smart, complete choice? (Must be yes.)
- If my dad picked "Best" — would I feel he got value for every dollar, or would I be embarrassed by any line? (Must be value, no embarrassment.)
If you can't say yes to all three, restructure the menu.
Example: Same Findings, Built as a Menu
- Front brake pads at 2mm — RED
- Front rotors scored — YELLOW (could resurface)
- Rear brake pads at 4mm — YELLOW
- Brake fluid dark — YELLOW
- Cabin filter dirty — YELLOW
- Battery 5 years old, marginal test — YELLOW
- Coolant overdue by interval — YELLOW preventive
GOOD — $480
Front brake pads only. Gets her safe today.
BETTER — $920
Good + rear brake pads (will be due soon) + brake fluid flush + cabin filter. Handles the wear, saves a return visit.
BEST — $1,540
Better + front rotors resurfaced + battery replacement + coolant flush. Full preventive — she's set for the next 30k miles.
Pricing the Tiers
Three rules of thumb for the math:
- The gap between tiers should make math-sense. If Good is $480 and Best is $1,540, Better should land somewhere reasonable in between — usually around 60% of Best.
- The middle tier is the target. Most customers will pick it. Make sure it's a strong, complete recommendation.
- Don't engineer the prices. Each tier's price is just the sum of what's in it. Trust the math; don't manipulate it.
What "Good" is NOT
- An anchor designed to look terrible so they pick Better. (Customers can tell.)
- A "do nothing" option. Doing nothing isn't a tier — it's a decline.
- A version that leaves something unsafe undone.
What "Best" is NOT
- A dumping ground for everything you can think to upsell.
- Items the tech didn't actually flag.
- Anything that doesn't pass the "if this were my dad" test.
Common Mistakes
- Putting red items only in Best — leaves Good as a "do nothing safely" option (wrong, customer could pick Good and not be safe).
- Pricing the tiers identically — defeats the purpose of choice.
- Padding Best so it looks bigger but doesn't actually deliver more value.
- Building the same menu structure regardless of what the MPI actually found.
Manager Coaching Tip
Look at the menus your advisors are building. If "Good" is consistently a wimpy do-very-little option, the team is treating Good as a throwaway. Coach them: Good should be the MINIMUM safe answer. If you wouldn't recommend "Good" as a complete-for-today answer, the menu is wrong.